Carriacou, mon amour…

If paradise does exist, it may well be here, in peaceful, tranquil Carriacou, one of the 3 Grenada islands. We arrived in Anse la roche seeking shelter from the stronger winds and swell that made the Tobago Cays very uncomfortable. Peter was skeptical when I pulled out Navily (this app is to cruisers what TripAdvisor is to other travelers) and said there was a single review for this small bay, and it was bracingly positive. Well, skeptical or not, when we got here, we found 2 other boats at harbor, and nice, calm waters. By nightfall, one catamaran had left and another had arrived. The next morning, it was just us and another sailboat. They left in the morning, and we had this marvelous cove all to ourselves.There are no boat boys here, but we got a quick greeting from the guys on a boat called “Extravaganza”, telling us about their restaurant on the beach. All we could see was a summary hut with 4 picnic tables, a bar with lots of bottles on it, a barbecue and some beach chairs. In the afternoon, the boat brought in a couple of customers, and we wondered how such a place could make a profit! In our quest for cold storage, we decided to ask these guys if they could bring us a bag of ice the next day, and Tim, the chef, said no problem. We asked how much, he said 10EC.

The next day, he brought the ice, but wouldn’t accept our money. So we went for lunch at his place. We weren’t expecting much more than grilled fish, but it was way better than that!

The table had been beautifully set. Tim served us ti punch, carefully put together. Then he set to grilling. Not on a charcoal fire, but over hard ash wood that smelled divine. When the food came, it was amazing. Perfectly cooked marlin. Garlic roast potatoes. Ultra fresh salad and fried plantains. It was as pretty to see as it was delicious to eat. I was thinking grilled fish on a paper plate with some tired salad and maybe a boiled potato!Turns out this guy is Tim Gallaway, native of Union Island (his mom has a fruit and veg stand there in the market I talked about in the article on Clifton). He’s cheffed in plenty of restaurants, and knows exactly what he’s doing. Thing is, he loves working on this gloriously peaceful beach. No dress code. His own boss.

The snorkeling at Anse la Roche was terrific. Lots to see, and healthy coral on both sides. It was so beautiful, in fact, that Peter did a drone flight late one afternoon, as Tim.and his team were leaving.

Now everyone likes to watch a drone flight, so Tim and the guys were watching as they packed up Extravaganza to head home. Peter was on shore, while I was snorkeling around in near the beach. There was a collective and audible gasp as the drone hovered maladroitely over the water before descending, dipping halfway in, then miraculously rising and heading back to Peter. Sadly, that was the drone’s swan song. Salt water and electronics are not a good match…